Starting in the centre of Agde, which began life as an ancient Greek trading post, pick up your rental bike(s). A few turns of the wheel and you join the banks of the Hérault River to reach the sea via a safe track. Once at the port of Le Grau d’Agde, you come to a unique site on the Mediterrancean – the Belvédère de la Criée. At this professional fish market, learn about the fishing fleet and how the fish is processed and sold here.
After the guided tour, head for the beaches. First stop, Plage Richelieu, a long stretch of white sands, with Brescou Fort in the background. Have lunch at kid-friendly restaurant Le Manovi, with fabulous views over the Med. In the afternoon, make for the black-sand beach of La Grande Conque, at the end of the volcanic trail that runs down to the Med from the Auvergne’s distant volcanoes.
From mid-June to mid-September, starting at the little beach, a marked underwater trail allows scuba divers and snorkellers to learn about the flora and fauna of the volcanic seabed here. If unable to follow this because of the season or bad weather, the Musée de l'Ephèbe et de l’Archéologie Sous-marine has a treasure hunt inside; spot hidden objects, learning about their history.
Time to head to the Hôtel le Bellevue, on the clifftop path. For dinner, several options: Place du Môle nearby, with the restaurant O 2 Frères; or maybe the Esplanade Pierre Racine, Cap d’Agde’s central square, where you’ll find the restaurants La Madragde and L’Ami Louis.